Tuesday, February 23, 2010

The Negev and the Shephelah

This day of our itinerary was the longest of the ten days. We traveled south as far as Avdat in the Negev. Avdat straddles the ancient "spice route" from Petra to Gaza. The desert civilization created by the Nabateans is almost inconceivable. Only the present-day inhabitants, the Israelis, have come near their achievements in conservation and use of water and in desert farming techniques.

After an overlook at Ein Avdat, we moved on to Tel Beersheva. Earlier in the morning, we had visited Tel Arad.

At Tel Beersheva, we remembered the patriarchs who passed this way. Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob were all here at one time or other. Hagar and Ishmael also struggled to survive in this hostile place.

Most intriguing were the stories from Genesis that surrounded the well of Abraham. First, there is the dispute over the well between Abraham and Abimelech, subsequent covenant at the well, and Isaac's "redigging" of the well. While amusing in some of the details, the stories stress the importance of water in this place to this day.

The journey back to Jerusalem took us through the Shephelah, the lowlands or foothills between the coastal plain and the Judean Highlands. Five prominent valleys divide the Shephelah. Each valley once was protected by a fortress.

Two valleys commanded our attention. In the Valley of Elah, we read I Samuel 17, the story of David and Goliath. Then in the Sorek Valley, we remembered the stories of Samson in Judges 13-16.

From Bet Shemesh, we began the climb back "up to Jerusalem." Once again, we realized that the reference (up) is both a theological and geographical term.

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