Retracing the Final Week II

Our group's final day was in the environs of the Old City. The focus of our field trips and our studies was the final days of Jesus' ministry.

The day began at the Lion's Gate or the St. Stephen's Gate. After a visit to St. Anne's Church, we followed the Way of the Cross through the Old City. Although the Via Dolorosa is a walk of faith and not history, the journey is nevertheless meaningful.

For us, the day did not end at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. After a long wait to enter the edicule, we continued on to the Western Wall. Since Thursdays are given to Bar Mitzvahs, the plaza was alive with singing and the dancing of school children.

The final stop on this twelve-day journey through the Bible was at the Temple Mount Excavations. There we stepped onto the first-century street along the western or retaining wall of the Second Temple. We examined the inscriptions from Isaiah and the "place of trumpeting
...."

Although hurried by a departing meal and flight, we spent as much time as possible on "the rabbis' teaching steps." These steps are considered original to the Second Temple. It was here that pilgrims ascended to the Temple from the south, and it was from these steps that Jesus unburdened his heart and rendered his final teaching. The teaching as recorded in Matthew
23 is a declaration of "woes" on the Pharisees.

As we concluded the reading of the Gospel of Matthew, Jesus' cries for genuine discipleship accompanied us on our continuing journey of faith.

Retracing the Final Week I

Over the next two days, our group from Mississippi will be retracing Jesus' final week in Jerusalem. In the Church, we refer to this period of his ministry as "Holy Week."

By beginning the day in Bethany, we realize that the retracing can't be on true chronological lines. Nevertheless, the sites visited are crucial in understanding the drama of Jesus' final hours.

Bethany was the home of Mary, Martha, and Lazarus. Perhaps, another Mary (who anointed Jesus' feet) lived here. Yet another of Jesus' friends who lived in Bethany was Simon the Leper.
The combination of such acquaintances attracted Jesus to Bethany often. Tradition holds that Bethany was Jesus' base for the crucial days before Passover.

From Bethany, we made our way to Bethphage located where the ancient road in the Wadi Qelt opened onto the Mount of Olives. Here we remembered Jesus' triumphant entry into Jerusalem on what the Church today calls "Palm Sunday" (Mark 11). We spent time seeking out the meaning of what appears to be a diliberate claim of kingship, albeit a different kind of kingdom. It was not difficult to imagine a pompous procession from the west by Judea's prefect, Pontius Pilate. What a contrast it must have been!

Leaving Bethpage, we walked down the Mount of Olives to Dominus Flevit Church which commemorates Jesus' pause to weep over the city. "O Jerusalem! O Jerusalem!" the cry continues.

In the garden of Gethsemane, we prayed in the Basilica of Agony or the Church of All Nations. The architect, Antonio Barluzzi, has captured a sense of night inside the church even on the brightest of days. Nearby is the cave where the disciples might have slept through the cold night.

The afternoon was spent on Mt. Zion at the traditional site of the Upper Room, the tomb of King David, and St. Peter in Gallicantu (the place of the crowing of the cock). Between the garden of Gethsemane and Mount Zion, we were able to set the context of the events of Maunday Thursday. Some of the group took time to visit the grave of Oscar Schindler in the Protestant Cemetery.

The final stop of the day was to view the Second Temple Model of Jerusalem. This model is located now at the Israel Museum. Although it is not, the model appears of a larger scale and even more impressive in its new location. The model remains one of the great teaching tools in this land.

The Negev and the Shephelah

This day of our itinerary was the longest of the ten days. We traveled south as far as Avdat in the Negev. Avdat straddles the ancient "spice route" from Petra to Gaza. The desert civilization created by the Nabateans is almost inconceivable. Only the present-day inhabitants, the Israelis, have come near their achievements in conservation and use of water and in desert farming techniques.

After an overlook at Ein Avdat, we moved on to Tel Beersheva. Earlier in the morning, we had visited Tel Arad.

At Tel Beersheva, we remembered the patriarchs who passed this way. Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob were all here at one time or other. Hagar and Ishmael also struggled to survive in this hostile place.

Most intriguing were the stories from Genesis that surrounded the well of Abraham. First, there is the dispute over the well between Abraham and Abimelech, subsequent covenant at the well, and Isaac's "redigging" of the well. While amusing in some of the details, the stories stress the importance of water in this place to this day.

The journey back to Jerusalem took us through the Shephelah, the lowlands or foothills between the coastal plain and the Judean Highlands. Five prominent valleys divide the Shephelah. Each valley once was protected by a fortress.

Two valleys commanded our attention. In the Valley of Elah, we read I Samuel 17, the story of David and Goliath. Then in the Sorek Valley, we remembered the stories of Samson in Judges 13-16.

From Bet Shemesh, we began the climb back "up to Jerusalem." Once again, we realized that the reference (up) is both a theological and geographical term.

Bethlehem and the Herodion

Before visiting Bethlehem, our group hiked to the top of the Herodion. This partially man-made mountain is the only building project of Herod the Great that bears his name. It is also the final resting place for the client-king of Rome.

Recent excavations by Ehud Netzer have revealed what is believed to be the site of the monumental tomb of Herod. Netzer thinks that this structure, given its foundation, was seven-stories tall. As well, the archaeologists have uncovered a small, private theatre which seated 45o of Herod's guests.

In addition to Herod, the fortress served the Romans, the Zealots, and the Byzantines. Each occupant modified the site to fit their needs. For example, the Zealots transformed the triclinium into a synagogue. Intriquing as well are the numerous tunnels dug by the Zealots for surprise attacks into the countryside.

Perhaps the most striking fact about the Herodion comes from the period of its construction. Herod's workers literally moved an adjacent mountain to raise the elevation of the Herodion some 65 feet. Scholars in the land speculate that this imagery may have been background for Jesus' teaching in Mark 11:22-23: "Have faith in God. Truly I tell you, if you say to this mountain, 'Be taken up and thrown into the sea, and if you do not doubt in your heart, but believe that what you say will come to pass, it will be done for you.'"

These words of Jesus served as inspiration for our afternoon visits to two mission sites in the Greater Bethlehem area, Hope Secondary School and Bethlehem Bible College.

The Judean Wilderness

Following worship at St. George's Cathedral in East Jerusalem, we set out for the Judean Wilderness. The Wilderness between Jerusalem and the Jericho/Dead Sea area can often be menacing, but not today. Winter rainfall has caused the normally brown landscape to sprout new grass. This region certainly has its own beauty.

Our first stop was Ein Gedi, the spring of the wild goat. Again, the recent rains have made the reserve alive with new growth and abounding with water. Again, what a day to visit Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea! Most days here can be so oppressive and challenging, but again not today.

We then returned north for a stop at Qumran. Here we pondered the likes of the Essenes and their potential influence on John the Baptizer and the early church.

In Jericho, we enjoyed lunch and visited what is often called Old Testament Jericho. The 10,000 year-old tower never ceases to amaze and humble me. Sadly, the site still needs attention and development.

The last stop of the day was at New Testament Jericho. The remains of Herod's Palace provided us the opportunity to discuss the life of Herod the Great. With a visit scheduled later for the Herodion, we were able to connect the death and burial of Herod.

But it was the story of Jesus' temptation in the Wilderness that dominated our thoughts in this desolate place. The setting allowed us to feel deeply the tests of One who was tested as no other.

The Arbel, Sepphoris, Megiddo, and Caesarea

Our time in the Galilee ended today, and what a way to finish. We climbed the Arbel for a final look at the entire region. The morning sky was clear blue, and we could see forever.

From the Arbel, we traveled to Sepphoris or Zippori. Excavations continue at the site, revealing more and more mosaics. Our discussion centered on the possibility of Joseph and Jesus working here. Nazareth is less than four miles away. Richard Batey offers a strong case for Jesus' presence here in his book, Sepphoris: the Forgotten City.

After a quick trip around Tel Megiddo, we ended the day at Caesarea Maritima. We explored all three sections of the city. As the sun was setting, we arrived at the aqueducts. Our timing could not have been better. It was the perfect ending of a perfect day.

Note: As you can see from the photo, I am relying on Todd Bolen's Pictorial Library of the Bible once again. I failed to bring my camera for this photo op.

A Day Around the Sea of Galilee

The fourth day for the group was around the Sea of Galilee. Today it is known by the locals as "the Kinneret." Kinneret means "harp." If you view the lake on a map, it does have the shape of an ancient harp. And folklore equates the sounds of the lake with that of the most beautiful music, thus the name.

Still another source confers preferential status on the Kinneret. After the seven seas, God takes special delight in the Sea of Galilee.

Most groups find any day special around the lake. This day began with a visit to see the first century boat at Ginnosar, followed by a boat ride on the sea. Next, we read the Beatitudes on the mount by the same name.

At Chorazim, we visited the ancient synagogue and explored in depth many of Jesus' teaching. An ancient insula (house) provided the setting for study of the parables of the lost coin and the friend coming at midnight, the promise of Jesus that God's house has many rooms, and the account of the healing of the lame man brought by friends (Mark 2).

Other stops were at Bethsaida, Capernaum, and the springs of the apostles in the Wadi Hamam. As always, this day around the lake was packed with lessons from the land.

The Jezreel Valley Where God Sows

On our third day in the land, we dodged rain showers. Our itinerary included various sites in the Jezreel Valley. This most fertile of valleys is rightly named "God sows."

We began the day at Bet Shean, one of the cities of the Decapolis. From there, we journeyed to Ein Harod where we remembered Gideon and God's victory over the Midianites. Later, we visited Jezreel, the city, and recalled just one of the many injustices of King Ahab and Jezebel. The story of Naboth and his vineyard still cries out for redemption.

The final stop before lunch was at Nain (Nein). Here we celebrated one of the miracles of Jesus, the raising of the widow's son. Only Luke records this event. In response to Jesus' compassionate act, the villagers declared that "a great prophet had risen in their midst." This response and the miracle sound strikingly similar to that of Elisha who raised a widow's son at Shunem (an area town).

From here, we left the Jezreel Valley and ascended the hills of the Lower Galilee to the city of Nazareth. The afternoon was extremely cold and rainy. But we persisted on and saw the Churches of the Annunciation, St. Joseph, St. Gabriel, and the Synagogue Church.

The Best of Intentions

I had the best of intentions. My intention was to blog at the end of each day during our journey through the land. Either it was the age of the blogger or the intensity of the days while traveling with the Jerusalem Center for Biblical Studies that thwarted my best of intentions.

Therefore, I have decided on the second best approach to recounting the days in the land and recording "lessons from the land." I will write from the perspective of hindsight.

The group from Mississippi arrived at Ben Gurion Airport ahead of schedule. After a brief reunion, we embarked on our journey by traveling up the Coastal Plain, turning east at the Caesarea (Maritima) Junction, passing Megiddo and Nazareth, skirting Mount Tabor, and descending into Tiberias from the south.

Ahead of us, we have four days in the Galilee. Four days seem hardly enough since eighty-five per cent of the ministry of Jesus takes place around the sea and in Upper and Lower Galilee. But we will make do. First things first, the group needs dinner and a night's rest